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This course is six sessions long:
Tue Nov 3 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Thu Nov 5 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Tue Nov 10 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Thu Nov 12 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Tue Nov 17 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
Thu Nov 19 2026, 11:00 am - 2:00 pm
In this course you'll learn to make a Chanel-style jacket the traditional couture way, beginning with choosing and preparing the right fabric, lining, and trim. You'll make a muslin to fit the jacket properly, then transfer your adjustments to the pattern so the finished piece moves comfortably at the shoulders and arms. From there you'll cut and match your fabric carefully, and learn the signature technique of quilting the lining to each fashion fabric piece. That quilting gives the jacket its soft, structured shape without any interfacing.
As the jacket comes together, you'll combine machine stitching with hand finishing, including slip stitch, catch stitch, and whipstitch, along with pressing methods that keep seams flat and clean. You'll add the details that define the look: braid or fringe trim, patch pockets, closures, and a chain weight in the hem so the jacket hangs well. By the end, you'll have a fully lined, hand-finished jacket and the skills to judge your own work for fit, finish, and polish, ready to apply to future projects or to clients' garments.
Difficulty:
Intermediate: Should be comfortable with set-in sleeves, fitting, and hand-stitching)
Skills required:
- Machine sewing confidence. Students should be able to sew straight, accurate seams with a consistent seam allowance, and handle common seam finishes, pressing, and stay-stitching.
- Set-in sleeves. Session 5 has students ease a sleeve cap without gathers, which is difficult to learn at the same time as everything else.
- Basic fitting. Students should know how to read a pattern’s size chart, take body measurements, and make simple adjustments such as shoulder, length, and sleeve changes. They’ll refine these in the muslin session, but they shouldn’t be learning what a fitting adjustment is for the first time.
- Basic hand stitching. Students should be comfortable threading a needle, using a thimble, and making even running stitches and a simple hem stitch. The course reviews the slip stitch, catch stitch, and whipstitch, but a student who has never sewn by hand will fall behind.
- Pattern reading. They should understand grainlines, notches, markings, and the order of construction.
- Pressing. Students should know how to press rather than iron: pressing seams open, using a ham for curves, and not stretching the fabric.
Materials required:
Fashion fabric: loosely woven bouclé or tweed (about 2 to 2.5 yards depending on size). Avoid very dense or heavily textured fabrics for a first jacket.
Lining: silk charmeuse or crepe de chine (about 2 yards). Many couture makers use a coordinating or contrasting print.
Trim: braid, ribbon, or a self-fringe made from fabric raveled at the edge
Notions: buttons or gilt closures, silk thread for basting, matching sewing thread, hook-and-eye or snaps if needed, chain weight (by the yard) for the hem
Tools: hand needles (sharps, milliner's), thimble, tailor's chalk, shears, pressing ham, clapper, wide ruler, muslin fabric for fitting
Fabric, lining, muslin, and trimmings must be purchased at The Sewist.
Materials provided:
- A pattern in your size.
Click here for the full lesson plan.
If you have questions or need additional information, just email Linda.
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